Shibuya is world-renowned for its numerous high-end shops and eateries, the Hachiko statue, and the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing. If you’re interested in Japanese culture or media, you’ve definitely heard of it one way or another.
Thousands of bodies cross the giant 4-lane intersection at once. Tourists with selfie sticks and cameras poke above the crowd while people from every walk of life take part in the spectacle.
It’s so remarkable that popular artists often reference its existence. Daoko sings about it in the song ShibuyaK, and it’s a major setting in the most recent season of popular anime, Jujutsu Kaisen.
But almost as infamous as the crossing itself, are the Halloween festivities people partake in. So, the question is: to cross or not to cross – is Halloween in Shibuya really worth it?
Table of Contents
A Brief History of the Shibuya Scramble
A scramble crossing is actually a particular type of crossing where all vehicle traffic stops, allowing pedestrians to cross every way at once.
Shibuya Scramble Crossing (渋谷スクランブル交差点) was established in 1973. It’s right next to Shibuya Station – a main hub for four train lines – making it a center of activity as train passengers seek their transfers and destinations.
It’s also central to several fashionable shops like those in the 109 Building, Starbucks, Mega Don Quijote, and even an Ikea.
Approximately 3,000 people cross the scramble at a time. It’s a staggering amount of people.
It has also been a destination for Halloween festivities and cosplay since the 2000’s and 2010’s.
My Experience at Halloween in Shibuya in 2017
Halloween in Shibuya is a buzz of drunken activity – it’s a gigantic party that starts the minute you exit Shibuya Station. Revelers dress in costumes of popular or nostalgic anime characters, mascots, animals, or generally ghoulish regalia. Clubs invite partygoers with tantalizing deals and pounding music. And with alcohol typically allowed in public in Japan, it seems like anything goes.
I hadn’t originally planned on going to Shibuya for Halloween. I’m an introvert and naturally prefer less crowded areas, but part of our study-abroad group convinced me to go. After all, when would we have the chance to go again?
I think I owe getting together with my husband to Halloween 2018. Once we had our fill of alcohol and revelry, half of our group headed home before the trains stopped running. The other half stayed and clubbed until sunrise. Still buzzed, we returned and got ramen at a nearby restaurant.
Afterwards, Ramón – then just a friend – walked me to my door and bid me goodnight. Still tipsy, I let him know I thought he was cute. They call it liquid courage for a reason! A few days later we started dating… and the rest is history. But that’s another blog.
To be transparent for a second though, as much as it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, I would wait ’til things are less risky to go again. Besides, I think the friends I went with made it more memorable than the hundreds of drunken passers-by in costume. I also didn’t envy the hangovers that the other half of our group returned with the next day.
Why is Halloween being Discouraged?
As one of the biggest events of the season, Halloween is extremely popular with college students, cosplayers, tourists, and partygoers. It’s honestly no wonder why Halloween in Shibuya is so popular, since it’s basically just a huge party.
But with its popularity comes danger. 2023 is the first year since the pandemic started where tourism is open in Japan – and that means it has been busy in Tokyo.
From 2020-2021, celebrating Halloween in Shibuya has been discouraged and even banned due to the pandemic and the frequent disturbances that occur that night – like arrests and belligerence – not to mention the trash left about.
In 2022, Shibuya Mayor Ken Hasebe continued the trend with a drinking ban for the last 5 days of October from 6pm-5am.
So far 2023 seems like no exception. According to NHK World Japan, Mayor Ken Hasebe has warned off of participating in Halloween Festivities in Shibuya, and will be implementing another drinking ban. On top of this, there will be increased security in the area. [Update 10/26/23] Halloween festivities in Shibuya are officially considered cancelled.
And while all of this may sound a bit excessive, Shibuya Scramble is already a known high-traffic event without the alcohol.
Not only is the Scramble concerning for spreading the flu or Covid19, in the wake of Itaewon’s tragic crowd surge last year, reducing Halloween festivities in Shibuya is a potential life saving plan.
What is a Crowd Surge
Also known as a crowd crush, a crowd surge occurs when the density of people in a small space becomes compacted as people move or push forward.
This can cause panic, and if one person falls, more follow, creating a deadly trap as more people rush forward. It’s the stuff of nightmares – but it can and does happen.
Often we hear of a crowd surge occurring at events with lots of people in an enclosed space like concerts, or sports games.
Unfortunately it notably occurred last Halloween in the Itaewon district of Seoul, South Korea. And with more people coming to Japan as tourists this year, it is a serious concern.
So, Is Halloween in Shibuya Worth It?
While I don’t want to rain on anyone’s parade, I don’t think Halloween in Shibuya is worth it this year. Between the health concerns for Covid19 and the potential for crime and crowd surges, it might be best to sit this year out.
However, that doesn’t mean you can’t have fun on Halloween. Here are a few fun ideas for this spooky season:
- Marathoning horror movies with friends or family
- Grabbing dinner and drinks in costume with your besties
- Hosting your own Halloween party with a select group of people
- Carving pumpkins and watching reruns of shows with a halloween twist
I love celebrating Halloween as much as the next person. And Shibuya is definitely a unique place to celebrate and see the spectacle. But following the tragedy in Itaewon and the still very real concern of Covid, I’ll be refraining from celebrating Halloween in Shibuya this year.
My hope is that in the future there can be a happy medium between safety and riotous fun on Halloween in Shibuya. But however you choose to spend it, stay safe out there, and have a spoooooky Halloween 🎃!